As luck would have it we ran out of swell after the first few days and therefore failed in our attempt to capture the surfing we were looking for to explode over these pages.
We did however capture some of the essence of the South Coast which will follow in the next Post.
About Michael
Sometimes you are unsure why you take pictures, why on a certain day and with some significance.
This picture was taken on the day Michael Peterson died, before I knew of his inevitable destiny with the big sleep.
I remember posting it on Facebook and simply placed the words "Heaven and Ocean". Little did I know that on that very day Michael finally fell to a lifelong battle with Schizophrenia. Yes.....and I also know he loved his spliffs.
I do not want to make this man bigger than he was nor do I want to unrealistically make his existence something that it was not. Simply put, many a person has or has had his illness and they equally are slightly tortured.
To bring this into some perspective for those who at this stage think I am delving into the "good "ol years" and that this does not happen any more..........you don't have to look too far back for someone who most likely controlled their illness with drugs or erratic behaviour............Andy Irons
While I was on the Gold Coast a couple of months ago I visited Kirra and reflected on the days that the place was just simply barrels peeling off with surfers locked inside and none better in my opinion than Michael. Of course I also saw Kelly Slater in the mid 90s get the best barrel I ever witnessed at Kirra. Allowing for equipment and the emergence of surfing as a full time professional sport, what Michael accomplished on a single fin at Kirra is worth the credit and remains up there.
Ironically, I also captured this picture, at the time I was reflecting on Michael and thought the structure in this picture has seen it all at Kirra.
So, where do I see Michael and Andy in the history of surfing?
- Both were brilliant and innovative in their style, in and out of the water.
- Both, it could be said, had extreme behaviour traits. One introverted and dark and the other outwardly social and wild.
- Both were always, or at least seemed to be linked to drugs.
- Both changed surfing and or the attitude to surfing
- Both fiercely competitive to the point of paranoia.
- Both.........in my opinion.....misunderstood.
Like shooting stars they appeared - took your breath away- and then - gone.
I thank God for these people who seem to sacrifice themselves so that others can get absolutely blown away by the things they do.
But what a terrible world they must have lived in...............
Having said that, I know Michael did some funny things that are legendary in their outrages antics - the car trips - the continual stone and laugh, chuckle and the inventive pranks. I am guessing some one could recall much of the same from Andy.
Since their passing I have heard some people say they were destructive to others, maybe even caused drug problems with others, and maybe they did. On balance though, decisions are made by those accepting the offer......... The thing that always brings me back to earth is that in Michaels case he was extremely ill. Some people may say weird.
If they were weird than what sort of a world are we in these days? If it is not weird than what is? Disasters measured by dollars and not human cost - Politicians ruling your life - Money and materialism above all etc etc etc. Nothing gets left behind by "the world" and its behaviour.
Finally, look at those people around you, are they OK? There is nothing wrong with caring and understanding.
A piece of me died when Michael died. Rest easy old fella you have done your bit.
(picture - WAVES Magazine issue # 253)
With love
The staff at 6Ps.
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