The surf at Crescent Head has been awesome since Sunday and for the days before, but since Sunday it has been as good as it gets. Albie Falzon has been seen out and catching the bombs with a layback style that represents the marijuana generation.
6Ps has been patrolling the breaks within about a 50 klm radius of Crescent Head and been camping out to catch the early off shore winds. Of course this camping out also produces those nightly fireside weird stories and over indulgence of alcohol and substance abuse.
At this stage 6Ps must state it is against any abuse, especially drug related. So reference to alcohol is legal, but substance is not................or something.
Anywho.....my brilliant film editor Milo has been released on bail from gaol and has been cleared of the drug charges laid against him. We have got some great footage and it will be shown in future posts.
At 6Ps we take pride in the fashion statements we make, especially when the female gender is represented. Let us show you the brilliant fashion we have unearthed this week:
Weird....................
Milo goes straight
As you are probably already aware my film editor Milo has some pretty unusual habits and has had his difficulties with remaining.........may we say........in this world. Well I am pleased to announce that Milo went straight yesterday.
Let me explain.
Yesterday afternoon the surf was great at the point and relatively uncrowded. I waxed up and donned the boardshorts (Quiksilver) for a late afternoon delight. Well bugger me if I don't hear the sound of the wax up happening right next to me......yes.....it was Milo! Usually when I go for a surf Milo has a heads down session in the front seat of my car sniffing something. Here was Milo, waxing up his 1974 twin fin 5ft 2" wearing his cheesecloth shirt as a rashie and wearing his high wasted 4 button boardshorts made by his now deceased Mum.....weird things happen.
Once out in the take off zone Milo was on fire!!! Talking the talk, splashing the water, talking to Huey and generally fitting into the mid North Coast vibe.
I was lucky enough to get a beautiful wave halfway down the point.
As I turned to paddle out again, here was Milo taking off on an absolute bomb!!!! Cheesecloth flapping in the breeze, high wasters now down to only 2 buttons as the speed of the wave had ripped the remaining 2 off, hair at 45 degrees to the head position. What a sight!!!! Milo in full flight!!!!.....weird.
As Milo flew down the face of the wave, there was no bottom turn, no hack off the top, no spray from a radical re entry...................just straight down the face of the wave and straight................straight into the rocks................Milo goes straight. Yep straight from the rocks to hospital.
He is in a serious but stable condition (for the first time in his life).
Weird things happen.
The South Coast Freeze
6Ps hits the road this weekend to the NSW south coast, destination Werri Point and quality breaks beyond.
Why we are doing this at this time of the year is quite crazy given the surge towards winter, but hey 6Ps has never been mainstream with its logic.
An Oldie but a Goldie
6Ps is proud to re present a weird but wonderful film "Thelma and Louise go surfing". It's in keeping with the feel of this post:
Stay tuned for South Coast Posts
Aloha
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