Sitting here doing this post and thinking back to when I first "discovered" the North Coast, Morning of the Earth was still to be made. Nimbin was being discovered by the original hippies and 7ft single fins with no leg ropes were standard equipment.
Having successfully "categorised" myself into an era and age I am not about to tell you that the good old days were in fact good old days or that "we" had it best. Every generation of surfer has their own story to tell and there is always a laugh when telling it.
There is one description used in todays world, however, that was stolen from surfing. That term is "Surfing the Net". A term I can easily identify with simply because when checking out locations for suitable surf we were likely to travel for days on end until we found the right "site".
An endless road filled with anticipation, similar to that girl you see across the room and wonder what she would be like............
A clip recently produced by the 6Ps team comes close to the journey to find surf. Very much a condensed version but a reminder of "discovering" surf in Australia. A time when Bali and Indonesia were part of the "yellow peril" that would overthrow Australia and when schooners were 18 cents.
(The clip appears further down the blog)
Travelling from Sydney to the Gold Coast along the Pacific highway was the equivalent of surfers who today fly to Bali and enjoy it's delights. It was just as adventurous, the endless road, diversions to "new" surfing discoveries, sometimes taking a car ferry to secret beaches was rewarding in every way.
As you looked out the window of the car everything just blurred past...........
It's fair to say I have wandered off on my keyboard with a bit of reminiscing, but the point is, it is only because you take the journey that you have the memories:
In keeping with recent posts and attractive photos we present:
Nice boards..............
The 6Ps team is getting itchy feet and is planning a trip to Byron Bay very soon. Ideally we would like to coordinate this with mother nature and a couple of events that really do make us realise how insignificant we all are. One is the swell generation and the other is the southward migration of the whales.
Aloha to all...............and.................the girl on the other side of the room.
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