Swell and Sadness

Todays post is a celebration of surfing, nice places and advice. The reason is simple, a surfing brother lost his life at Crescent Head on Sunday 22nd July. A local surfer originally from Cronulla - Ray Metcalf or Raz.

Tragically he hit his head on rocks and drowned in a medium surf with an extremely low tide. Ray was a builder and shaper, aged 62 still on short boards and a respected member of the Crescent Head Community.

At this time 6Ps wishes to celebrate life rather than add any more sadness.

This picture was taken on the morning of the day Ray left us. It was taken from along the beach looking towards the point.

Surfing Equipment


As promised in previous posts I have been researching ways in which to improve your surfing performance. After all the research I have found that it still requires plenty of water time and technique to master the waves of choice.

Surfboards - Find one that suits you and not Kelly Slater. Most of all discuss what you want out of a wave and if possible take some short film of you surfing to a shaper so he can design a board that best suits you. Be prepared for an ego disappointment, and suck it up. You will enjoy your surfing much better.

(So I have just waged into the China popouts I guess.......)

Fins  - Often taken for granted, but have a close look at how they affect speed and turns. For this expert area I have included this short video:

Preparation


Often overlooked in the busy world, however, time taken to prepare properly will avoid injury and enable you to be more effective in the water much quicker than most. This video provides useful tips on preparing your body:

So for the Guy/Gal who loves to surf and enjoys being themselves the tips provided are about all you need to know. For the elite and competition surfers, these basics can also apply, however, personal coaching and advice is recommended.

I have left wax and leashes out of this as they are a basic best left to your own "feel".

You could almost like the look of smoking as this little bevvy demonstrates. (6Ps does not endorse smoking)

A cool photograph by Morgan Maasen of Raen Sunglasses.

Another Morgan Massen original.


Well it is August in the Southern Hemisphere and we have only one month to go until Spring. The days are getting slightly longer and the hope is now for a few warm days to remind us of how good summer is. The whales continue their migration, the birds are shouting a little earlier in the morning and I am sick of wearing jackets.

Could be worse.................

Aloha